How To Make Bias Binding

Mastering the Art of Bias Binding: A Comprehensive Guide

Bias binding, those wonderfully versatile strips of fabric cut on the bias, are essential for creating professional-looking finishes on garments and crafts. Whether you're a seasoned seamstress or just starting your sewing journey, understanding how to make bias binding is a crucial skill. This comprehensive guide will walk you through every step, from choosing your fabric to creating perfectly pressed, durable binding that elevates your projects. We'll cover different methods, troubleshooting common problems, and even explore creative uses beyond the standard hem finish.

Understanding Bias and its Advantages

Before we dive into the making process, let's clarify what "bias" means in sewing. Bias refers to a diagonal cut across the fabric, at a 45-degree angle to the selvage (the finished edge of the fabric). This angled cut allows the fabric to stretch and curve more easily than straight-grain cuts. This inherent stretchiness is what makes bias binding so adaptable to curves and edges.

Why use bias binding? Several key advantages make it a favorite among sewists:

Flexibility: Its diagonal weave allows it to conform smoothly to curves, resulting in a neat, professional finish on rounded necklines, armholes, and curved hems.
Durability: When properly made and applied, bias binding provides a strong, long-lasting finish that prevents fraying and maintains the shape of your garment.
Professional Look: The clean, crisp lines of well-applied bias binding significantly enhance the overall aesthetic appeal of your projects.
Versatility: Bias binding can be used for a wide variety of applications, from edging garments and quilts to finishing bags and home decor items.
Creative Potential: You can create bias binding from various fabrics, allowing you to match or contrast it with your project, adding a personalized touch.

Methods for Making Bias Binding: Single and Double Fold

There are two primary methods for creating bias binding: single fold and double fold. Each offers distinct advantages, depending on your project's needs and your personal preference.

Making Single Fold Bias Binding

Single fold bias binding is quicker to make but requires more precise cutting and application. It's ideal for projects where a narrow, less bulky finish is desired.

Step 1: Cutting the Bias Strips:

Determine the required length: Measure the perimeter of the area you'll be binding, adding extra for seam allowances and overlapping.
Calculate strip width: The finished width of your single-fold binding will be approximately double the width of your cut strip. For a 1/2-inch finished binding, cut your strips 1 inch wide.
Cut on the bias: Using a rotary cutter and a ruler is recommended for accuracy. Cut strips at a 45-degree angle to the selvage. It’s easier to cut long strips and then cut them into shorter lengths if needed than to cut numerous short strips.

Step 2: Pressing and Joining the Strips:

Press each strip: Pressing the bias strips helps to eliminate wrinkles and creates a smoother, more professional finished product.
Join the strips: Place two strips end-to-end, overlapping the ends by about 1 inch. Sew a diagonal seam, matching the raw edges precisely and then trim the seam allowance to 1/4 inch. Press the seam open. Continue joining strips as needed to achieve the required length.

Step 3: Pressing and Finishing:

Press the bias strip in half lengthwise: Fold the long strip in half lengthwise, with right sides together, and press firmly along the folded edge. This creates a clean, even fold.
Apply to your project: Open the folded binding and attach it to your project's edge, using a stitch close to the folded edge.

Making Double Fold Bias Binding

Double fold bias binding is slightly more time-consuming but creates a more durable and professional finish, ideal for projects that require extra strength or a cleaner appearance.

Step 1: Cutting the Bias Strips:

Determine the required length: Similar to single-fold, measure the perimeter plus seam allowances.
Calculate strip width: The finished width of your double-fold binding is equal to the width of your cut strip. For a 1/2-inch finished binding, cut your strips 1/2-inch wide. Keep in mind this method requires wider strips than the single fold.
Cut on the bias: Use a rotary cutter and ruler for precision and cut long strips on the bias.

Step 2: Pressing and Joining the Strips:

Press each strip: Press the strips as in the single fold method.
Join the strips: Overlapping the ends, sew the bias strips together as described for single fold bias binding, pressing the seam open.

Step 3: Pressing and Finishing:

Press the bias strip in half lengthwise: Fold the long strip in half lengthwise with right sides together and press firmly.
Fold again and press: Fold the pressed edge over to the opposite edge, encasing the raw edge inside. Press firmly to create a neat, finished edge.
Apply to your project: Stitch the folded binding to your project’s edge.

Choosing the Right Fabric for Your Bias Binding

The fabric you choose for your bias binding is just as important as the method you use. Consider these factors:

Fiber Content: Fabrics like cotton, linen, and silk create beautiful bias binding, but their drape and texture vary. Cotton is generally a good all-around choice.
Weight: Choose a fabric weight that complements your project. Heavier fabrics are ideal for sturdy projects, while lighter fabrics are suited to delicate items.
Color and Pattern: Select a fabric that coordinates or contrasts with your project's main fabric for a cohesive or striking effect. Consider using scraps of fabric from your project for a perfectly matched binding.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Uneven Binding: Ensure you are cutting your bias strips accurately and consistently, and press thoroughly.
Wrinkled Binding: Press carefully and frequently throughout the entire process.
Binding that is too short or too long: Accurate measuring and generous seam allowances are crucial.
Difficulty turning corners: Use a point turner or a small, blunt tool to help turn sharp corners neatly.

Creative Applications Beyond the Basics

Bias binding is incredibly versatile! While often used for hems and edges, it can be used in many creative ways:

Creating bias tape bows: Cut strips into lengths and sew them into simple bows for adding detail to garments or accessories.
Making bias tape straps: Cut longer strips to create straps for bags and other projects.
Decorative stitching: Experiment with decorative stitching techniques to add a personal touch to your binding.
Appliqué accents: Use bias binding strips as decorative appliqué elements on quilts, tote bags, or other crafts.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: Can I use a serger to make bias binding?

A: Yes, a serger can create a professional finish to the raw edges of the bias strips, but you'll still need to press and fold it.

Q: What's the best way to miter corners with bias binding?

A: Mitering corners requires careful planning and precise cutting. There are several tutorials available online that can guide you through the process.

Q: Can I use pre-made bias binding?

A: Yes, pre-made bias binding is readily available in various widths and colors. It saves time, but making your own gives you more control over fabric and color choices.

Q: How do I prevent my bias binding from stretching?

A: Careful pressing and using a lightweight fusible interfacing can help prevent stretching.

Conclusion: Elevate Your Projects with Perfect Bias Binding

Mastering the art of bias binding significantly elevates the quality and appearance of your sewing projects. By following the steps outlined in this guide and practicing regularly, you'll soon be creating beautifully finished garments and crafts. Remember to experiment with different fabrics and techniques to find your preferred method and personalize your creations. The time and effort invested in learning this skill are well worth it, transforming your sewing from good to truly exceptional. Happy sewing!