How To Make Elizabethan Ruff

How to Make an Elizabethan Ruff: A Comprehensive Guide

The Elizabethan ruff, a symbol of status and elegance in the 16th century, continues to fascinate and inspire. This iconic piece of clothing, with its intricate folds and starched crispness, is a challenging but rewarding project for the costumer or history enthusiast. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the process of making your own Elizabethan ruff, from selecting materials to achieving that signature stiffness. Learn the techniques and understand the history behind this remarkable garment.

Introduction: A Stiff Upper Lip (and Neck!)

The Elizabethan ruff wasn't just a frill; it was a statement. Its size and complexity often reflected the wearer's wealth and social standing. Creating a historically accurate ruff requires patience, attention to detail, and a willingness to experiment. This guide will cover various techniques, from the simpler gathered ruffs to the more complex, wired versions popularized during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I. We'll explore different materials, starching methods, and finishing techniques, empowering you to create your own masterpiece.

Part 1: Materials and Tools

Before embarking on your ruff-making journey, gather the necessary materials and tools. The quality of your materials will significantly impact the final look and feel of your ruff.

Materials:

• Fabric: Linen is the traditional choice for its crispness and ability to hold starch well. Cotton lawn or even a lightweight cotton batiste can be used as alternatives, but linen offers the most authentic look and feel. The amount of fabric will depend on the desired size and width of your ruff. Plan for extra fabric for adjustments and potential mistakes.
• Starch: This is crucial for achieving the signature stiffness of the Elizabethan ruff. While modern laundry starches are available, a more historically accurate approach involves using wheat starch or a mixture of wheat starch and rice starch. Experiment to find the perfect consistency for your fabric and desired level of stiffness.
• Wire (optional): For larger, more structured ruffs, thin, flexible wire (such as millinery wire) can be used to maintain the shape and support the folds.
• Thread: Choose a strong thread that matches your fabric. A thread that is too fine may break under the strain of the starch.
• Pins: Plenty of pins are essential for holding the fabric in place during construction.
• Needles: Sharp needles are needed for sewing, especially if you are working with linen.
• Scissors: Sharp, fabric scissors are essential for clean cuts.
• Measuring Tape: Accurate measurements are vital for a well-proportioned ruff.
• Iron and Ironing Board: Essential for pressing and shaping the ruff.

Part 2: Pattern Making and Cutting

The first step is creating your pattern. The simplest ruff is a basic circle or oval, gathered at the back. More elaborate ruffs require more complex patterns.

Simple Ruff Pattern:

1. Measure your neck: Measure the circumference of your neck.
2. Determine the desired width and height: The width will determine the overall size of the ruff. The height will affect the fullness. Consider the historical examples you are aiming to replicate.
3. Draw the pattern: Draw a circle or oval with a diameter approximately 2-3 times the circumference of your neck. This will be the base of your ruff.
4. Cut the fabric: Cut two identical pieces from your fabric using the pattern. Add seam allowances (approximately ½ inch) to your pattern before cutting.

More Complex Ruff Patterns:

More elaborate ruffs involve creating multiple smaller pieces, carefully arranged and joined to create elaborate shapes and folds. Historically, these patterns were created by professional needleworkers and frequently involved intricate pleating and shaping. You can find patterns online, in costuming books, or create your own based on existing images of Elizabethan ruffs. These may involve multiple gores or panels that are carefully stitched together.

Part 3: Construction

Now it's time to construct your ruff. The process varies depending on the complexity of the design.

Simple Gathered Ruff:

1. Gather the edges: Gather the raw edge of one circle. Use a running stitch, pulling the gathering thread to create a snug fit around the neck circumference.
2. Join the circles: Place the second circle on top, aligning the raw edges. Stitch the two circles together, leaving an opening at the back for ease of wearing.
3. Press the seams: Carefully press the seams open.

Complex Ruffs:

Construction of complex ruffs involves several steps:

1. Cutting individual pieces: Cut out the individual pieces according to your pattern.
2. Pleating or gathering: Pleat or gather each piece individually as indicated by your pattern.
3. Joining the pieces: Join the pieces together, following the pattern instructions carefully. This will require patience and precise stitching.
4. Wiring (optional): If using wire, insert it into the seams between the pieces to provide additional structure and support. This step is essential for maintaining the shape of a large, elaborate ruff.

Part 4: Starch and Finishing

Starching is crucial to achieving the characteristic stiffness of the Elizabethan ruff.

1. Prepare the starch: Mix your starch according to the package instructions or using a historical recipe. The consistency should be smooth and creamy.
2. Apply the starch: Immerse your completed ruff in the starch solution, ensuring it's fully saturated.
3. Roll and squeeze: Roll the ruff in a clean towel to remove excess starch. Do not wring it out, as this may distort the shape.
4. Pin and shape: Pin the ruff onto a padded surface, shaping it into the desired form. You may need to use weights or other objects to hold it in place while it dries.
5. Allow to dry: Let the starch dry completely. This process can take several hours, or even overnight, depending on the size and thickness of your ruff.
6. Ironing: Once dry, carefully iron the ruff to remove any wrinkles and ensure a smooth, crisp finish. Use a low to medium heat setting to avoid scorching the fabric.

Part 5: Wearing Your Elizabethan Ruff

Once your ruff is complete and dry, carefully remove the pins. The final step is to wear your creation! You can use a separate band or ribbon to tie the ruff in place around your neck. Adjust the fit to your liking.

Part 6: Troubleshooting and Tips

• Uneven starching: If your ruff is unevenly stiff, re-starch the areas that are less stiff, allowing them to dry again before ironing.
• Wrinkles: Use a pressing cloth over the fabric while ironing to prevent scorching. If wrinkles persist, gently mist the area with water and press again.
• Fabric Choice: Experiment with different fabrics and starches to achieve your desired level of stiffness.
• Pattern adjustments: If the ruff is too large or too small, adjust the pattern and make a new one before beginning construction.

Part 7: Scientific Explanation of Starch

Starch, a complex carbohydrate composed of amylose and amylopectin, acts as a stiffening agent. When mixed with water, it forms a viscous solution. Upon drying, the starch molecules form a network of cross-linked structures, creating a rigid film that holds the fabric in place, thus providing the support and structure necessary for the impressive form of the Elizabethan ruff. The type and concentration of starch used greatly affects this stiffness. Wheat starch, historically favored, creates a stiffer finish compared to modern laundry starches that might contain additional softening agents.

Part 8: Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

• Q: Can I wash my Elizabethan ruff after it’s made? A: It's not recommended to wash a starched ruff. The starch is crucial to its shape and stiffness. If it becomes soiled, spot cleaning might be an option, but a complete washing will likely ruin its structure.
• Q: What if my ruff is too stiff? A: Use less starch in subsequent attempts. You can also try using a thinner starch solution or incorporating a small amount of fabric softener to reduce the stiffness.
• Q: How can I make a ruff with more elaborate folds? A: Research images of Elizabethan ruffs and study how the pleats and folds are arranged. Consider making smaller pieces and using wire for additional support. Experimentation is key!
• Q: Are there different types of Elizabethan ruffs? A: Yes, ruffs varied in size, shape, and complexity during the Elizabethan era. Some were simple, gathered ruffs while others were elaborate constructions with intricate pleating and wiring. Research different historical examples to find one that suits your style and skill level.

Conclusion: Embracing the Challenge of History

Making an Elizabethan ruff is a journey into history, demanding patience, attention to detail, and a touch of creativity. By following this guide, you can create your own historically inspired garment, a testament to the craftsmanship and elegance of the Elizabethan era. Remember to take your time, experiment with different techniques, and celebrate the process. The satisfaction of wearing your own handcrafted Elizabethan ruff is a reward in itself. Enjoy the process of bringing a piece of history to life!