How To Measure A Hem

Mastering the Hem: A Comprehensive Guide to Accurate Measurement and Perfect Finishing

Measuring a hem might seem like a simple task, but achieving a professional-looking finish requires precision and attention to detail. This comprehensive guide will walk you through every step, from understanding different hem types to mastering accurate measurements and ensuring a flawlessly finished garment. Whether you're a seasoned seamstress or a beginner just starting your sewing journey, this guide will equip you with the knowledge and techniques to confidently measure and hem any garment. This detailed explanation covers various fabrics, hem styles, and troubleshooting tips, ensuring your hems are always perfectly tailored.

Understanding Hem Types: A Foundation for Accurate Measurement

Before diving into measurements, understanding the different types of hems is crucial. The type of hem you choose significantly impacts the measurement process. Let's explore the most common hem styles:

• Simple Turned Hem: This is the most basic hem type, suitable for lightweight to medium-weight fabrics. It involves folding the fabric's raw edge inward twice before stitching. This method is quick and easy but might not be appropriate for heavier fabrics or those prone to fraying.

• Double-Turned Hem: Ideal for lightweight fabrics like silk or chiffon, this hem offers a clean, professional finish with minimal bulk. It involves multiple small folds, creating a neat and delicate hemline.

• Rolled Hem: Suited for sheer fabrics or delicate trims, this hem involves rolling the raw edge tightly before stitching. It's a very narrow hem, perfect for creating a barely-there finish.

• Blind Hem: This almost invisible hem is perfect for tailored garments and uses a specialized stitch to secure the hem without visible stitching on the garment's face. Requires a specific blind hem stitch on your sewing machine.

• Hong Kong Hem: This elegant and durable finish is best suited for heavier fabrics. It involves encasing the raw edge with bias binding before stitching. It creates a beautifully finished, professional-looking hem.

Essential Tools for Accurate Hem Measurement

Accurate hem measurement depends not only on your technique but also on the tools you use. Gather these essentials before you start:

• Measuring Tape: A flexible, accurate measuring tape is indispensable. Look for one with clear markings in both inches and centimeters.
• Ruler: A ruler is helpful for checking smaller measurements and ensuring straight lines, especially when working with intricate hems.
• Pins: Sharp pins are crucial for holding the fabric in place during measurement and stitching. Use plenty of pins to maintain a consistent hemline.
• Seam Ripper: Mistakes happen, and a seam ripper allows for easy corrections without damaging the fabric.
• Iron and Ironing Board: Pressing is crucial for creating a crisp, even hem. A well-pressed hem will lie flat and look professional.

Step-by-Step Guide to Measuring and Hemming a Garment

Now, let's break down the process of measuring and hemming a garment into manageable steps. This guide focuses on a simple turned hem, the most common and versatile method. Adaptations for other hem types will be discussed later.

Step 1: Preparation

• Clean the garment: Ensure the garment is clean and wrinkle-free. Press the garment thoroughly to remove any creases.
• Try on the garment: This is crucial, especially for garments that need to fit precisely. Check the length and make any necessary adjustments while wearing the garment.
• Mark the desired hemline: Use pins or tailor's chalk to mark the desired hemline. Stand in front of a mirror to ensure evenness.

Step 2: Measuring the Hem Allowance

• Determine the hem width: The hem width depends on the fabric weight and the desired hem style. A standard hem allowance is typically 1-1.5 inches for most fabrics. Heavier fabrics might require a wider hem (up to 2 inches).
• Measure from the marked hemline: Measure down from the marked hemline using your measuring tape. The measurement you obtain represents the total hem allowance.

Step 3: Folding and Pressing the Hem

• First fold: Fold the raw edge of the fabric inward by the amount determined in the previous step (e.g., 1 inch). Press the fold firmly with your iron.
• Second fold: Fold the fabric again towards the wrong side of the garment, pressing firmly once more. This creates a clean, double-folded hem. The width of the final folded hem should be consistent throughout.

Step 4: Pinning the Hem

• Secure the hem: Use pins to secure the folded hem in place along the entire hemline. Ensure the pins are evenly spaced and perpendicular to the hemline. This prevents puckering and ensures an even finish.

Step 5: Stitching the Hem

• Choose your stitch: A simple straight stitch is appropriate for most hems. You can also use a decorative stitch if desired.
• Stitch close to the folded edge: Stitch along the inner edge of the folded hem, maintaining a consistent stitch length.
• Remove the pins: Remove the pins as you stitch.

Step 6: Pressing the Finished Hem

• Final press: Press the finished hem again to set the stitches and ensure a crisp, professional finish.

Measuring and Hemming Specific Garment Types

While the basic principles remain the same, some garments require slight adjustments in the measuring and hemming process:

• Pants: Measure the hemline while wearing the pants and standing straight. Consider the desired break (how much the pant leg falls onto the shoe).
• Skirts: Similar to pants, measure the hemline while wearing the skirt. Pay attention to the drape and movement of the fabric.
• Curtains and Drapes: Measure the desired length from the rod or track to the floor, considering the desired fullness and hem allowance.
• Sleeves: Measure around the entire circumference of the sleeve cuff. The hem allowance should be even.

Troubleshooting Common Hemming Challenges

• Uneven Hemline: Double-check your measurements and markings. Use pins to ensure a straight line before stitching.
• Puckering: Ensure the fabric is pressed flat before stitching and use enough pins to prevent puckering during stitching.
• Fabric Fraying: Use a pinking shears or zigzag stitch to prevent fraying, especially with lightweight or delicate fabrics.
• Bulky Hem: Consider using a smaller hem allowance or a different hem style, such as a Hong Kong hem or blind hem, to minimize bulk.

Advanced Hemming Techniques

• Blind Hem Stitch: This invisible stitch requires practice but is worth mastering for a professional finish. You'll need a specific presser foot for your sewing machine.
• Hong Kong Hem Finish: A beautiful finish for heavier fabrics, this requires bias binding for a clean, professional appearance.
• Decorative Hems: Experiment with different stitch types and decorative trims to add unique details to your hems.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

• Q: What is the best way to measure a curved hemline?

  • A: Use pins to mark the hemline, keeping them close together for accuracy, especially around curves. Follow the curve when measuring and pinning the hem allowance.

• Q: How do I measure a hem for a garment with a pattern?

  • A: The pattern should provide hem allowance markings. Follow the pattern instructions and add any additional allowance based on fabric weight and desired hem style.

• Q: Can I machine wash a garment after hemming?

  • A: Yes, but test a small, inconspicuous area first. Use a gentle wash cycle and air dry to prevent shrinkage or damage to the hem.

• Q: What type of thread should I use for hemming?

  • A: Use a thread that matches the fabric color and weight. Consider using a stronger thread for heavier fabrics.

• Q: How can I prevent my hem from stretching out?

  • A: Use a slightly smaller stitch length and use a high-quality thread that is appropriate for the fabric weight. Pressing the finished hem firmly will help to prevent stretching.

Conclusion: Achieving Hem Perfection

Mastering the art of measuring and hemming is a fundamental skill for any sewer, regardless of experience. By understanding different hem types, utilizing the right tools, and following these detailed steps, you'll confidently create beautifully finished garments. Remember, practice makes perfect! Don't be discouraged by initial challenges. With patience and attention to detail, you'll soon be crafting perfectly hemmed garments that reflect your skill and attention to craftsmanship. Embrace the process, and enjoy the satisfaction of creating stunning, well-finished garments.