Sewing Pattern For A Hood

Sewing a Hood: A Comprehensive Guide to Pattern Drafting and Construction

Creating a perfectly fitted hood can elevate any garment from simple to stunning. Whether you're adding a hood to a jacket, cloak, or even a dress, understanding how to draft and sew a hood pattern is a valuable skill for any sewist. This comprehensive guide will take you through the process, from initial measurements and pattern drafting to construction techniques and finishing touches, ensuring you create a beautiful and functional hood. We'll explore various hood styles, offering tips and tricks for achieving professional results.

I. Understanding Hood Styles and Shapes

Before diving into pattern making, it's crucial to understand the different types of hoods available. The style you choose will significantly impact the pattern drafting process. Popular hood styles include:

• The Classic Hooded Jacket Hood: This is often a simple, slightly rounded hood, designed to fit snugly around the head and neck. It's a versatile style suitable for jackets, coats, and sweatshirts.

• The Cowl Hood: Characterized by its larger, draped shape, the cowl hood often lacks a defined crown and features a generous amount of fabric that falls gracefully around the shoulders and neck.

• The Balaclava Hood: A fully enclosed hood that covers the entire head, leaving only openings for the eyes, nose, and mouth. This style requires precise pattern drafting to ensure comfort and visibility.

• The Monk's Hood: This pointed hood features a distinctive peak at the crown, offering a medieval or dramatic aesthetic. Its design is more complex, requiring careful attention to shaping and seamlines.

• The Pointed Hood: Similar to the Monk's Hood, but with a less pronounced point, offering a slightly softer and more modern interpretation of the style.

The shape of your chosen hood will dictate the necessary adjustments to your base pattern. For example, a cowl hood will require a much larger fabric allowance than a classic hooded jacket hood.

II. Measuring for Your Hood Pattern

Accurate measurements are paramount to a well-fitting hood. You'll need the following measurements:

1. Head Circumference: Measure around the head, just above the eyebrows and ears.

2. Neck Circumference: Measure around the base of the neck.

3. Hood Depth: This is the distance from the crown of the head to the base of the neck. This measurement can be adjusted to your preference, determining the overall size and drape of the hood.

4. Hood Width (at crown): This measurement helps determine the overall width of the hood at its widest point. Experimentation might be necessary to achieve your desired fit and drape.

III. Drafting Your Hood Pattern: A Step-by-Step Guide

We'll focus on drafting a pattern for a classic hooded jacket hood. This can be adapted for other styles with minor modifications. You'll need paper, a ruler, pencil, and measuring tape.

1. Draw the Center Back: Start by drawing a vertical line representing the center back of the hood. Mark the desired hood depth on this line.

2. Determine the Hood's Crown Width: Using your head circumference measurement, divide it by four. This provides an initial estimate for the hood's width at the crown. Adjust this based on your desired hood size and fullness.

3. Create the Hood Shape: From the top of the center back line, draw a curved line outwards, creating the shape of the hood crown. The curve should be gentle and symmetrical. The width of the curve at its widest point should approximate the crown width calculated in step 2.

4. Draw the Neckline: From the base of the center back line, draw a slightly curved line outwards to create the neckline. This line should match your neck circumference measurement, but remember that the hood will overlap slightly.

5. Complete the Hood Shape: Connect the neckline and crown lines with smooth, curved lines on both sides, ensuring symmetry.

6. Add Seam Allowances: Add seam allowances (typically 1/2 inch or 1 cm) around the entire pattern piece.

7. Create the Hood Facing (Optional): For a cleaner finish, create a facing pattern by tracing the neckline and extending it slightly outwards. This will create a neat, finished edge inside the hood.

IV. Adapting the Pattern for Different Hood Styles

• Cowl Hood: To create a cowl hood pattern, significantly increase the hood depth and width. The neckline should be wider and less defined, creating a larger, more draped effect.

• Balaclava Hood: The balaclava hood pattern requires more precise measurements and additional pattern pieces for the face and eye openings.

• Monk's Hood: This pattern needs a more pronounced point at the crown. This can be achieved by extending the center back line and shaping the crown into a distinct peak.

V. Cutting and Sewing Your Hood

1. Cutting the Fabric: Cut out your pattern pieces from your chosen fabric, including any interfacing or lining fabrics. Use sharp fabric scissors for precise cuts.

2. Sewing the Hood: Pin the two hood pieces together along the side seams and the back seam, matching notches and seams precisely. Sew using a straight stitch.

3. Finishing the Neckline: If you’ve created a facing, attach it to the neckline, creating a clean finish. Alternatively, you can use a bias binding or other finishing techniques.

4. Adding the Hood to the Garment: Depending on your garment, you’ll attach the hood to the neckline using various methods. Common methods involve using a neckband or inserting the hood into a neckline opening.

5. Pressing: Pressing throughout the sewing process is crucial to maintaining crisp lines and achieving a professional finish.

VI. Tips and Techniques for Sewing a Perfect Hood

• Use Interfacing: Adding interfacing to the hood crown and neckline provides structure and stability, preventing the hood from flopping or becoming misshapen.

• Choose the Right Fabric: The fabric choice significantly impacts the final look and feel of your hood. Consider the weight, drape, and overall aesthetic when choosing your fabric.

• Test Your Pattern: Before cutting into your main fabric, create a test version from scrap fabric to ensure a proper fit and check for any necessary adjustments.

VII. Troubleshooting Common Hood Sewing Issues

• Hood Too Small: If your hood feels too tight, you likely need to increase your crown width or hood depth measurements.

• Hood Too Large: If your hood is too baggy, adjust your pattern by reducing the crown width or hood depth.

• Uneven Seams: Double-check your pattern pieces for accurate cutting and proper seam alignment to avoid uneven seams. Precise pinning is key.

• Puckering: Puckering often indicates uneven tension during sewing. Adjust your sewing machine settings and sewing technique accordingly.

VIII. FAQs

• Q: Can I use a ready-made hood pattern? A: Yes, many sewing pattern companies offer pre-made hood patterns that you can purchase and use. However, drafting your own pattern allows for a more customized fit and design.

• Q: What type of seam finish is best for a hood? A: A serged seam is generally preferred for its durability and clean finish. Alternatively, you can use a zigzag stitch or pinking shears.

• Q: Can I add a drawstring to my hood? A: Yes, adding a drawstring is a simple yet effective way to adjust the fit and shape of your hood. Insert the drawstring through a channel created along the neckline.

• Q: How do I add a lining to my hood? A: A lining adds extra warmth and a professional finish. Cut out a lining piece matching your hood pattern and sew it to the outer hood, leaving an opening for turning.

IX. Conclusion:

Creating a perfectly fitted hood involves precision, patience, and attention to detail. By following this step-by-step guide, including the tips and techniques provided, you can confidently craft beautiful, functional hoods for your garments. Remember to experiment, adapt the pattern to your preferences, and enjoy the creative process! With practice and experimentation, you’ll master the art of hood making and elevate your sewing projects to a new level. Remember to always measure carefully and adjust your pattern accordingly to achieve the best possible fit. Happy sewing!